Stage Makeup

kaitlin blackwood

Makeup is an essential feature of film and television shows today, but it is important to remember the roots of stage makeup – the theatre. It is this that first got me interested in becoming a Makeup Artist. Here is a short history lesson on the beginnings of stage makeup.

Europe:
In Greek and Roman theatre, makeup was unnecessary as actors wore various masks, allowing them to portray another gender, age, or entirely different likeness. The first form of stage makeup consisted of white lead (which we now know to be completely toxic) to paint the face white, or red wine to paint the face red. In medieval times, performers who portrayed God painted their faces white or gold; actors playing angels painted their faces red. During the Renaissance period, actors were creative and resourceful when making-over their faces. They used lamb’s wool for false beards and flour as face paint. These were fine a technique when low lighting was used (such as candles, and oil lamps), however, advances in stage lighting technology required stage makeup to evolve. Crude makeup applications were no longer acceptable, and a finer craft was born. Once gas and electric light were introduced to theatres, a need emerged for new makeup materials and more skillful application techniques. In 1873, Ludwig Leichner, an opera singer, began commercially producing a non-toxic greasepaint stick, easing the application of makeup.

Japan:
A fascinating form of theatre known as Kabuki originated in Japan in the 1600’s. The term Kabuki can be interpreted as “Avante-garde” or “bizarre” theatre. Kabuki theatre is known for the stylization of its drama and for the elaborate make up worn by its performers. The actors refer to the application of make up as kao o tsukuru – making a face. The action of applying make-up is considered very much a part of the preparation psychologically for a performance. In Kabuki Makeup, the highly stylized makeup patterns symbolize the character being portrayed. There are several styles of keshou (makeup)for males and female roles and many different shapes of lip and eyebrow styles each with their own name. The base colour for most styles of make up is the white oshiroi. Made from rice powder, on the onnagata it symbolized delicate skin. It may have had its origins in the attempt to illuminate the face of the actors because of the poor light in the theatres. The most distinctive make-up style, and that most frequently associated with kabuki is kumadori.
Chinese theatre also has kumadori, however it tends to create a mask irrespective of facial structure. In kabuki, the bold lines of colour highlight the eyes cheekbones and jawline which help to emphasize the emotional responsiveness of the character (often anger). It also gave some support to the character portrayal of the actor who would have to maintain a particular facial expression for long periods of time. The style of make-up is standardized for each role.

It is important to remain in tune with Makeup-artistry’s past, as well as continue to draw inspiration from various cultures.

-Kaitlin Blackwood